DIY Retro Rainbow Wooden Dresser
If you need a specific size, style, or color of dresser but are having a hard time finding it, did you know you can make one yourself? You don’t even need fancy tools (although they’d make this project easier!). In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to build a DIY modern wooden dresser that will last for ages.
You’ll need patience and precision, but once the project is done, my hope is that you love it.
Increased competition in the job market has made it more important than ever to have a standout resume. Recruiters often receive hundreds of resumes for a single position, so it’s crucial to make sure yours stands out from the crowd. Here are some tips to help you create a resume that will catch the attention of hiring managers.
1. Keep it concise: When writing your resume, be sure to focus on the most relevant and important information. Recruiters don’t have time to read lengthy paragraphs, so keep your statements clear and to the point.
2. Highlight your achievements: Instead of simply listing your duties and responsibilities, showcase your achievements and the impact you made in previous roles. Use numbers and specific examples to demonstrate your success.
3. Use action verbs: Start each bullet point with a strong action verb to convey a sense of energy and accomplishment. Avoid using passive language and opt for strong, active verbs instead.
4. Customize for each job application: Tailor your resume to each specific job you apply for. Review the job description and incorporate keywords and skills that align with the position.
5. Proofread for errors: A resume riddled with typos and grammatical errors will leave a negative impression. Take the time to proofread your resume carefully and consider asking a friend or family member to review it as well.
6. Format for readability: Use clear headings, bullet points, and plenty of white space to make your resume easy to scan. Avoid using complex fonts or excessive formatting that may make it difficult for hiring managers to read.
7. Include a professional summary: Start your resume with a brief summary of your skills and experience that highlights your most relevant qualifications. This will give recruiters a snapshot of your abilities and entice them to read further.
8. Don’t forget about keywords: Many companies now use applicant tracking systems (ATS) to scan resumes for specific keywords before they even reach a human. Make sure to include relevant keywords in your resume to increase your chances of getting noticed.
By following these tips, you can create a resume that effectively showcases your skills and experiences, setting you apart from the competition and increasing your chances of landing that coveted job.
Materials Needed:
FRAME:
- 3/4″ thick project panels or 3/4″ plywood: Two (2) 16” x 50-1/4” for the sides. Three (3) 16” x 29-3/4” for the interior horizontal supports. Two (2) 16” x 8-1/4” for the interior vertical supports. Two (2) 16” x 31-1/4” for the top and bottom.
- 1×2 lumber: Four (4) cut to 29-3/4”. Four (4) cut to 21-1/2”.
DRAWERS:
- 1×6 lumber: Twelve (12) cut to 14”. Four (4) cut to 5”. Eight (8) cut to 27-1/4”.
- 1×3 lumber: Eight (8) cut to 14”. Eight (8) cut to 19”.
- 1/4″ plywood: Four (4) cut to 14” x 20-1/2”. Four (4) cut to 14” x 28-3/4”. Two (2) cut to 14” x 6-1/2”.
DRAWER FACES:
1×4 lumber: Four pieces cut to 21-1/4″.
1×8 lumber: Two pieces cut to 8″. Four pieces cut to 29-1/2″.
Right angle clamp + regular clamps
1-1/4” pocket screws
Ten (10) sets of 14” European style bottom corner mount drawer slides
Wood glue
5/8” and 1-1/4” brad nails + nailer
This is a sketch of the dresser frame, with measurements. Use these numbers to measure and mark your dresser frame.
Take a 50-1/4” project panel, one of your sides. Determine the outside of your dresser and the top. Label the corners.
Labeling makes things easier and more accurate as you begin building.
Measure and mark all lines on the inside panel for horizontal supports. Start from the bottom end of the side panel and use the sketch to mark measurements.
Tip: Measure and mark both sides of the side panel and use a square while you draw these lines to ensure level drawers and supports.
Make Xs on the top side of your line to designate the side for the horizontal slabs. Always do this. Mark 3/4″ up from your line for the panel thickness, then mark 8-1/4″ above that.
Place Xs within these two lines to indicate panel placement. Mark 15-3/4″ above the top line, and another 3/4″ above that (place Xs between these lines). The distance from the last line to the top of your side panel should be exactly 8-1/4″. If not, measure again to find the difference.
Precision is key for building a dresser. Repeat this process on the inside of your second side (50-1/4″) panel.
Now take three project panels measuring 29-3/4″ in length. These will serve as the horizontal supports for your dresser frame.
Using a jig set to 3/4″, drill three pocket holes on each end of your three panels.
Take your two smallest project panels and repeat the pocket hole process. You’ll want the holes along the 16” side, not the shorter side on these panels.
Place one of the 29-3/4” slabs with the pocket-hole-side facing downwards. Draw a line at 7-1/2” from one side. Mark Xs on the far side of the line and label the front side of the board.
Repeat this process for the other 29-3/4” slab, ensuring that the two boards are mirror images when the “front” is labeled.
Position an 8-1/4” panel onto the line of your 29-3/4” slab, with pocket holes facing the short end and front ends aligned.
The two should be perpendicular. Apply wood glue to the end of your small panel, then reposition it.
Secure the boards together using a right-angle clamp and 1-1/4″ pocket screws.
Pause for a minute. This step may seem out of place, but trust me. Get your 14″ European bottom corner mount drawer slides. We’ll install a few pieces now before we continue with the dresser frame. It will be difficult (if not impossible) to install the slides once the 8-1/4″ square box is formed.
So let’s do it now.
Place a scrap piece of 3/4″ thick lumber at the short corner of your joint, at the front edge. Mark the 3/4” position from the front edge. This allows for your drawer faces to retract into your dresser, rather than protrude out, giving the entire dresser face a flat, contemporary look.
Using the instructions on your drawer slides, pick up the correct piece (right side) and loosely position it against the 3/4″ board or your 3/4″ line, keeping all “front” aspects in mind (on your frame and the drawer slide).
When installing a screw drawer slide, make sure to keep the front end flush with your line or 1/16″ behind it. It’s better to be slightly too far in than too far out, but precision is recommended whenever possible.
Set aside for a minute and take your left side panel. Remember how you marked up from the bottom of the panel and then up from that line? You’re now going to use this second line to install the left side of your drawer slide.
Place your scrap wood at the front end of your side panel and mark the line.
Position your drawer slide against the two 3/4″ lines and screw it in place.
The left side project panel will look like this.
This next part is a bit tricky. You can’t attach the top horizontal support slab to the short slab with a drill because there’s not enough headspace. Instead, you can do the following: Place the second 29-3/4” project panel (mirror image) on your workspace, pocket holes facing down.
Apply a little wood glue on the cut end of your short (and now attached) 8-1/4” slab. Position the gluey end onto the Xs of your 29-3/4” piece. Clamp it in place with your right-angle clamp and use a drill bit to secure 1-1/4” pocket screws manually.
Use pliers to tighten them if needed.
Use the extra 8-1/4” slab to support the other end of the 29-3/4” slabs while you attach the first one.
On the third 29-3/4” slab, mark 7-1/2” in from the right side (after determining the front). Draw Xs on the far side of the line. Glue and attach the second 8-1/4” slab onto the Xs.
Install the left bottom drawer slide on this slab (3/4″ from the front). Your primary horizontal supports are done!
On the right side (50-1/4″) slab, place a 3/4″ scrap board on the front side to draw the top line, which should be 8-1/4″ from the top. Then, install the right drawer slide. The interior of the side slabs should resemble this.
If you forgot to pocket holes on your 29-3/4” slabs or if they accidentally ended up on the wrong side, don’t worry. You can drill new pocket holes onto these boards, even after they’ve been attached.
Drill three pocket holes on each interior end (top and bottom) of the two side panels. Ensure that these holes are on the interiors.
It’s time to attach the top and bottom slabs to the sides. Grab your wood glue (you can use any type, but I prefer Gorilla wood glue).
Run a bead of wood glue on the bottom edge of a side slab. No, it doesn’t have to be excessive to the point of dripping off. Apologies for the delay in taking this photo.
Use the right-angle clamp to secure the side slabs on top of the bottom project panel. Attach with 1-1/4” pocket screws. Repeat for the second side panel.
It’s best to have a helper with this step to hold the larger side panels upright while you attach them.
Use a square to check for 90 degree corners, then attach the top slab to the top edges of your side panels in the same way.
To mark a line all the way up the front ends of your side panels, use a 3/4″ scrap piece of lumber. This will make installing the drawer slides easier.
If you forgot to add Xs or mark the 3/4″ lines on your side panels, do so now.
Loosely slide your horizontal support boards into the frame, positioning them along the marked Xs and between the 3/4″ line spaces. You can choose to glue them, but it’s not necessary.
Align precisely and attach horizontal support boards through pocket holes using 1-1/4” pocket screws. Use a right-angle clamp to hold things in place. Repeat the hand-tightening technique for the top right square hole.
Sorry.
With your support boards in place, it’s time to attach the “faux” support boards. These are the 1x2s that run horizontally, in front and in back, between the drawers where there’s not an actual support board.
Drill pocket holes into the ends of each 1×2 board.
Glue and position each 1×2 board in place, aligned with the front and back ends of your frame within the measured and marked 3/4″ spaces.
Pocket holes can face up or down; visibility is not a concern as they won’t be seen once the drawers are installed.
Check for level and plumb after every installation; it’s easier to make adjustments now than later when everything is set.
Flip your frame when installing the 1x2s. I found it easiest to screw downward, so I laid the frame on its side when installing the pocket screws.
This is what your dresser frame will look like. Notice the “faux” support boards on both the front and back sides.
We are glad that we already installed the drawer slides into the tiny squares. We are ecstatic about that.
Before moving on, you might choose to fill your pocket holes with pocket hole plugs.
After a dry fit to ensure the right size (I had to trim mine), apply a large drop of glue into the pocket hole.
Slide the pocket hole plug into the hole.
Smooth out, removing excess glue as needed. Repeat for any pocket holes you want to fill.
Use your 3/4″ scrap wood to mark the lines from the front edge on any horizontal support boards.
Installing the drawer slides on your frame is the next step. Draw lines using a straight edge on your 1×2 supports as a guideline for the slides.
Keeping in mind the front end, choose the right and left slides accurately.
Use three screws per drawer slide to install along the top line of each 1×2 support board. Make sure each slide is installed at the 3/4″ mark (3/4” from the front edge).
Once you have mounted the drawer slides onto your dresser frame, it is now time to construct the drawers. Regardless of their size, attach each drawer by sandwiching the front and back faces between the ends of the 14” side boards. Drill two pocket holes per side of each front and back board. These holes should be drilled on the 1×6 and 1×3 boards that are not 14” long.
You should have a total of twenty (20) boards.
Use glue, a right-angle clamp, and 1-1/4” pocket screws to build the drawers. Check for 90 degrees after every attachment to ensure your drawer is perfectly squared off.
Tip: Place the pocket holes outward. The drawer face will cover them in front, and it doesn’t matter if they show on the back of your drawer. Plus, you don’t want pocket holes snagging your clothes.
One drawer at a time, customize it to fit the space. If a drawer is tight, shave a little off the front and back board ends before building it.
Label each drawer to match its position in the dresser.
To install the drawer-mounted drawer slides, simply hold them up against the bottom of your drawer and push the drawer into its position in the dresser.
The drawer should easily slide in and out. Make any necessary modifications now. Ideally, you won’t have to change anything since each drawer is custom-built for its slot in the dresser.
Place the 1/4″ plywood piece cut to fit the drawer on your workspace, along with the two drawer slides and the drawer.
Determine which side of the drawer you want to be the top and the front. Set the plywood to ensure the drawer bottom fits.
Review: “Run a bead of wood glue along the bottom edge of your drawer.”
To secure the drawer, apply wood glue along its bottom edge.
Place the drawer bottom on the glue.
Square up and hold the drawer bottom in place while nailing it to the drawer walls.
Position the front ends of your drawer slides against the furthest point on the front end of your drawer. (In a perfect world, the entire front end would be perfectly aligned with all pieces. This was not precisely the case with me, but it was close. I’m calling that a victory.)
The back end of the drawer slide can hit anywhere; don’t worry about aligning it.
Attach the drawer slide using screws.
Roll the drawer into its slot.
In this instance, the right side of the drawer is 1/8″ higher than the left side. However, this is not a major concern because you can adjust the drawer face to fit perfectly.
Mount all drawer slides to the bottom of the drawers, one at a time, customizing the fit of each drawer as you go.
When all drawers are built and rolling, it’s time to attach their drawer faces. After verifying the perfect fit of the face into the slot (there should be about a 1/8” gap around all sides), lay it down below the drawer so the back aligns with the installed drawer.
Use a pencil to mark the vertical part of the drawer slide. This aligns the drawer face with the drawer itself. Also, hold the drawer face against the drawer and look through the gap at the bottom toward the drawer slides. Note where the bottom edge of the drawer face hits the drawer. Does it hit halfway up the metal slide or cover it completely?
This ensures precise installation of the drawer face.
Pull out the drawer and apply glue to the front.
Using your pencil markings as a guide, align and position the drawer face onto the sticky drawer.
When aligned, clamp the drawer face in place.
Use 1” or 1-1/4” brad nails to attach the drawer face to the drawer.
Customize each drawer face, modifying as needed so it fits squarely.
It significantly changes the appearance of the dresser when the drawer faces are attached, right?
I love how the faces create a flat surface on the front of the dresser since they are inset 3/4″ from the front edge. Beautiful!
Remember labeling the drawers and their corresponding slots in the dresser? It’s useful when sanding and painting.
Use fine-grit sandpaper to sand all surfaces of each drawer, especially the face. Be careful not to sand too much off the corners of your boards to keep them squared off and modern.
Sand the sides and edges, keeping in mind that these interior drawer surfaces won’t be treated, so they need to be extra smooth.
Before painting, fill any holes in the wood or gaps in joints.
Spread the wood filler into the holes using a putty knife, including the holes made by the brad nails on the drawer faces.
Smooth and let it dry.
When the wood filler is dry, sand it smooth.
The wood filler application is visible (splotchy brown), but the surface is smooth to the touch.
After sanding, wipe clean.
Prime and paint everything. The frame is Benjamin Moore’s Strong White.
These are the colors used for this dresser: Starburst Orange, Hydrangea Flowers, Melon Popsicle, Fresh Air, Acadia Green, Bahaman Sea Blue, Blue Lapis, and Symphony Blue. You can mix sample paints at your local store for a less expensive way to get a range of colors.
Paint the drawer faces.
Paint the drawer faces and check for drips or bumps. Keep brush strokes in the same direction. Consider using foam rollers for a smoother look.
Give the drawer faces two or three coats, allowing them to dry completely between each coat.
I used eight colors and painted the two sets of slimmer drawers the same color. This color blocking worked well, keeping all colors at the same verticality.
When the frame paint is dry, install the dresser legs. This example uses capita legs from Ikea. They are a little over 4” tall.
Install the leg plates in the corners of the bottom of your dresser.
Screw the legs onto the plates. Adjust for level, if needed.
Once your drawer faces are fully dried, install the hardware. Use a template, predrill, and attach the handles.
If you’re installing handles, install the drawers into your leveled dresser, then use a level to mark the predrill holes. Because each drawer face was customized to the drawer slot, it might not be precisely level. If you don’t want to deal with level hardware, choose pulls instead.
Position the frame in your space and install the drawers.
One thing I love about capita legs is that they are adjustable, so no matter how uneven or slanted your floor is, your furniture piece can be level.
You built a contemporary dresser with style and functionality.
One of my favorite aspects of this dresser is its retro rainbow color palette.
I believe ombre would look great on the drawers if you don’t want to buy multiple colors. Regardless, I hope you enjoy building your own dresser and love the end result for years to come. Happy DIYing!
Hello there!
I’m Kevin Brown, a dedicated home master and the creative mind behind rentcheck.me. My journey began with a passion for ensuring homes are not just structures but sanctuaries that reflect comfort, safety, and happiness.
With years of experience in property management and a keen eye for detail, I’ve developed rentcheck.me as a resourceful platform aimed at helping individuals navigate the complexities of renting properties.
Whether you’re a tenant seeking your next home or a landlord aiming to streamline your rental process, my goal is to equip you with the knowledge, tools, and insights needed to make informed decisions. Welcome to my world, where every checkmark means a step closer to finding or creating your ideal home!